Electrical
Wiring project record - May 2026Hard / Professional

Safely Splice a Damaged Under Cabinet Puck Light Cord

A damaged plug-in lighting cord can be repaired only after you identify whether you are working on low voltage or line…

OutcomeWiring project record - May 2026

A damaged plug-in lighting cord can be repaired only after you identify whether you are working on low voltage or line voltage.

Why this matters

Wire size and connector color alone do not prove voltage. The Enbrighten case used side-by-side lamp-style wire, 16-gauge donor wire, and red butt splices, but the cut labels left the output voltage uncertain.

Tools and materials

  • Wire stripper and ratcheting crimper
  • 16-gauge stranded wire matched to the existing conductors
  • Insulated red butt splices sized for the conductors
  • Heat-shrink or electrical tape for secondary protection
  • Polarity marker and cable clips

What I found and what I would do next

  1. Unplug the system. Disconnect it from the receptacle before exposing or cutting conductors.
  2. Identify the electrical side. Read every surviving label. A 120V, 60Hz, 18W package description does not prove the cable between components is low voltage.
  3. Preserve conductor identity. Mark ribbed versus smooth insulation or existing positive and negative markings before cutting.
  4. Strip conservatively. Remove about one quarter inch of insulation without nicking copper strands.
  5. Crimp each conductor separately. Insert fully into the correct-size butt splice and crimp with the matching die.
  6. Tug-test and insulate. Pull firmly on each wire, add heat-shrink or tape where appropriate, and keep the two splices staggered if space permits.
  7. Secure and test. Support the cord so the splice carries no strain, then power the system and monitor for flicker or heat.

Common mistakes

  • Assuming every puck light is 12 or 24 volts
  • Losing polarity or ribbed-conductor orientation
  • Twisting and taping without a listed connector
  • Adding a wall dimmer to a plug-in system without confirmed compatibility

Know your limits

If any repaired section carries 120 volts, passes through a wall, lacks strain relief, or uses an unidentified driver, replace the cord/system or use a qualified electrician.

Start with the diagnosis. Work safely, use the current product label or manufacturer instructions, and stop when the project moves beyond your tools, experience, or comfort level.

How to adapt this to your project

Identify the fixture's voltage, cord type and manufacturer-approved repair method before touching wiring. If it is line voltage or the correct repair is uncertain, disconnect power and use a qualified electrician or replace the assembly.